andorra the explora

I take 0 credit for that yummy title.

Nestled between France and Spain, sits Andorra. Originally, I thought people were mispronouncing some region of Spain that I never heard of.

Turns out it’s a country?

When I got off the 3 hour bus from Barcelona, I read a sign that the capital, Andorra la Vella, is the highest altitude capital in Europe. This changes EVERYTHING.

They speak Catalan and/or French here but I heard mostly Spanish? Not many people speak English.

I stayed at the Mercure hotel, which had a free spa. One of my favourite life delicacies that gets served up is when you ask politely for a quiet room, away from elevators because (unfortunately) you’re a light sleeper.

Then the check-in person carefully picks a room right next to the elevators.

Scrumptious.

eat.

The food in Andorra- no me gusta.

I tried to find cheap eats that were takeaway so I went to Crêpe & Crêpe, LAGANUM and Tequilando Box- all fell flat.

I ordered the Tex Mex burrito at the taco place, it was fine. For €10.50 it was less than okay. I would have appreciated some rice thrown in there to bulk it up if you know what I mean.

All the supermarkets look like an airport duty free. Those massive Toblerone’s that probably could be classified as a weapon and shouldn’t be allowed on planes. Those outlandish Chupa Chup with many tiny Chuppas inside. Bonkers.

I’d say the prices were the same as they were in Barcelona. Overpriced.

cheap.

Hiking is in order here.

Andorra in general reminds me a bit of Revelstoke or Squamish in Canada- if you just drive through or wander the streets of the capital you may not love it because it has an abandoned, off-ski-season feel to it, which it namely because it was off-ski-season.

Hiking is a free activity, just in case you forgot.

I asked the hotel front desk for good hiking trails since I had no data (Andorra is outside the EU free roaming zone) – they referred me to the Tourist Info Center.

For the map, I was anticipating some in depth trail, gradient view for trekking. Perhaps the info lady would tell me about a board at the base of the trail where I could write my name so people knew I was on the trail and when to expect me back. I’m from Canada, sue me.

On the map that was given to me, the Tourist Info Center Woman (capitalized) drew a line from the words Andorra la Vella to halfway across the country saying it was a nice hike, then circled a lake. Told me I couldn’t go further than where she drew a line due to snow.

She gave me the bus schedule and circled the bus stop.

The information was vague enough for me to have a question or two, but she put so much effort into drawing a line through half the country that I said nothing.

I missed the 10:00 bus and the next one was at 12:00. About a 2 hour wait, so I grabbed a tea at MIDTOWN Andorra. Not sure why there is an American inspired cafe here, but I’m not going to read into it. Tea was good. The way they boiled water was 100.

I went to the bus stop that was circled on the map at 11:45, checked that the bus info/ timetable was plastered on the bus stop board and waited until 12:20.

Back to the Tourist info center I went. She told me I had the wrong stop and that I needed to go down the street more. Eye roll. Her overzealous circling cost me an hour. What kooky public transport misadventures will I get into next?

I finally found the stop she was talking about. I only had to wait less than another hour. Parked in front of the stop was a mini van with retro stripes on the side. No bus number or anything so I showed the driver the paper timetable I had and he said yes it’s this bus. Then I asked for the ticket price and he said it was free. Those are the moments that are worth 3 hours of my wasted time.

The retro van had seats for 15 people- mostly shuttling around locals biddies so they didn’t have to walk up a mountain side to get their giant Toblerone.

The van stopped on the side of the road and I just adore awkwardly sitting there until the driver says last stop, you need to get out. I wandered down a gravel road to a picnic area. There were some locals setting up a BBQ so I asked them where the trailhead was.

We all know how undetailed the map I had was and as locals, even they struggled finding where I should go.

Their parting words were “If you get lost just come back and eat some meat.”

I appreciate you.

The hiking to Refugi de Fontverd was chill- I passed maybe 5 people on the trail. Andorra is so small I nearly made it back to Spain during my 3 hour hike. Bonkers.

1 bus an hour, 15 seats, 17 well fed picnic people trying to catch the same ride. It was dicey. The kids sat on laps and they had to unfold the extra “jump seat” but we all managed to fit.

As we were scooting down the mountainside, the bus driver started cartoonishly waving to the people who were waiting at the bus stops- trying to inform them that the bus was full.

In a cruel twist of fate, they awaiting passengers eagerly waved back thinking the driver was happily waving hello to them. It wasn’t until we drove past them that I saw their saddened faces when they realised we weren’t stopping for them.

Classic miscommunication.

travel.

The major towns of Andorra are accessible by bus. Regional buses leave from the stop that I finally found called Caldea. It’s in front of the glass building they called a spa.

Let me talk about this Inuu adults only Caldea spa for a hot sec. It is GLORIOUS. Half of it was being renovated so instead of €70+ for 3 hours, I got a discounted price of €47.50 for 3 hours.

The night before I tried to book tickets online but they were all sold out so the next morning I went in person. They had ticket machines but I didn’t see them until after but the front desk lady told me there were a lot of time slots available to book. I got a 7:00pm and it closed at 10pm.

When I arrived at 7pm I was told the kids group hadn’t left yet so I should come back at 7:30/8pm. I was a bit bummed that I didn’t get the full 3 hours, especially since they kick you out at 9:45pm for cleaning- but the 2.5 hours I spent there were MAGIC. They had free infused water and we all know how I feel about infusions. Hit or miss. They had these waterbeds with jets outside so you saw the snow capped mountains before it got dark and then- stars shining bright above you.

I took a bus for €1.90 (bought onboard) to Ordino. I read that this was the place to see- but was it?

Upon arrival, I walked upwards where there were some stone houses and new developments. The buildings all looked like newly built stone ski chalets to me but apparently they may date to pre-roman times. Not sure.

I went to the tourist info center, pulled out my trusty map and asked what I should see. Apparently the walk to Església de Sant Martí de la Cortinada is nice and it was.

Before I went, a lot of people poo-pooed Andorra. I had a splendid time.